Gone to Ghana

Joyeux Noel! December 25, 2008

Filed under: Uncategorized — slrussell @ 3:04 pm

Bonjour! I am sitting in a cafe in Ouagadougou for my first Christmas away from home.  We left Ghana on Monday morning and have had a blast so far.  Since I can’t be with my family, I am so happy to be with Mel and Merilyn.  They are so much fun and hardly a moment goes by without a laugh (or a snort!)

Just a couple of quick highlights:

  • arriving at the Ghanaian/Burkina border and discovering that the french I learned in high school did not cover most terms asked on a customs form
  • missing the bus from the border to Bobo.  Fortunately the guy Merilyn had arranged to drive us to the border was allowed across to take us on a quick chase for the bus.
  • my first hot shower in three and a half months
  • riding a moped that requires pedaling to start.  Unfortunately I got the bike that had the spark plug pop off every ten minutes or so so I am now very good at starting the bike.  We did make it to the waterfall though and both the journey and the destination were a highlight.
  • my first pizza in months
  • my first chinese food in months
  • a swimming pool!

Tonight we are off to the Moulin Rouge for supper again, hehe.  It was great last night and I think I will have pizza again.  Can’t beat my favourite food for Christmas dinner (only because Mom has promised me a turkey when I get home).  Then we are off to Mali in the morning and will see how far we actually get.  There is beautiful hiking in something called Dogon County and a great mosque in Djenne.  From the sounds of it catching buses will get significantly more challenging from here on and the food will be, well, more like “home” in Ghana.

Thanks so much for the notes Kim, Fred, Wendy, John, Sandra, Kirsten, Shanna, Kristen, Bev and the others I have missed.  Don’t think I will have internet again for quite some time so Happy New Year! See many of you soon!

 

Au Revoir! December 20, 2008

Filed under: Uncategorized — slrussell @ 10:10 am

It has been a busy week of packing, finishing up projects and saying goodbye.  On Thursday night a few people met at the convent for some drinks to say goodbye.  They had simply told me they had a “presentation” for me, but I was not prepared for what was yet to come.  I’m not sure if you know this but I don’t really like being the center of attention.  Actually it is really weird because I don’t mind it if I am speaking but if I am just being looked at I am very uncomfortable.  I think that’s why I can’t get married.  The marriage part would be no problem (ha, yeah right!) but I couldn’t do the wedding.  Walking down that aisle (four times!) as a bridesmaid has been hard enough.  Anyway, so when they handed me a bag on Thursday night and told me to go change I knew this was trouble. 

 

In the bag was a brand new outfit that they had worked hard at the office to get made.  Natalia had spent Wednesday going from the weaver where the cloth was made to my taylor where she sat all day prodding Vero to make the perfect outfit for me.  So…..tada! 

As I came down the stairs the group stood and clapped and proclaimed “how beautiful.” Oh my.  This was followed by speeches by everyone at the table.  So kind, but so not my comfort zone. 

 

Yesterday I, of course, wore the outfit to work and had to say my goodbyes to everyone in Jirapa.  It was a very weird feeling because I don’t yet have the excitement of going home and there is still a full month of transition time.  I have really enjoyed Jirapa but also don’t feel like I was there long enough to make really close friends.  So, mixed feeling about going but looking forward to the next phase.  Tomorrow we head to Burkina Faso and I will begin my attempts to communicate in French.  For three weeks.  I am the expert in our group.  Wonder what country we’ll end up in!

 

I don’t expect I will have internet very often so I will pass on my Merry Christmas and Happy New Year now.  I hope you have a wonderful, relaxed holiday.  See you in 2009!

 

A New Career????? December 18, 2008

Filed under: Uncategorized — slrussell @ 9:46 am

I’ve been working on a new rendition, what do you think?

I’m dreaming of a sweaty Christmas,

Not like the ones I’ve ever known,

where the armpits glisten,

and children listen

for breezes yet to blow and cool.

I’m dreaming of a sweaty Christmas,

with every blogpost that I write.

May your days be sunny and hot,

And may all your Christmases be sweaty.

(It actually isn’t that hot here right now, and the breeze is definitely blowing, but we’ll just call that artist license, right?

 

Thank you to those of you who sent me Christmas cards here.  That was great! Julie, Mrs. Ratcliffe, and Kris, you guys made my day.  I only sent one (to “The Family”) and we shall see if it ever gets there.  Hmmmm, I just realized that I should have told you all that I sent one and then blame it on the mail system……oh well.  As an aside, I have become good friends with the lady at the post office and I think she will genuinely miss my daily visits to see if there is anything more for the white lady.  She is actually looking for a penpal and wanted me to find her one.  If anyone is interested, let me know.

 

Yesterday when I got back to the convent the sisters gave me a gift.  I was so touched I can’t tell you.  They had a very nice Christmas card and a piece of fabric.  It really felt like the true meaning of Christmas.  It was not given out of expectation and they also really thought about what to give me.  It has been a running joke here how much I like the fabric and how often I get new things made and so it was only fitting that they give me fabric.  Thank you so much to Sister Marcelina, Sister Joyce, Sister Lizzy and all of the girls working at the convent.  I have been so fortunate to have known you!

 

 

I’m a Glutton December 15, 2008

Filed under: Uncategorized — slrussell @ 9:26 pm

Last night I had to pack up most of my things even though it is a month (4 weeks Friday, but who is counting) before I come home.  My director from Accra was here today to assess how I have done and was kind enough to take a big bag of my stuff back with him in the vehicle .  This seemed so much easier (for me at least!) than going from bicycle to bus to taxi to bus to bus to taxi as I would be doing in a month.  And after Friday I am going to be living out of a backpack anyway.

 

I am so disappointed in myself at how much I brought.  Granted I had no idea what I could get here but I also realize that I don’t use nearly the same amount of “stuff” here as I do at home.  Really, how much hair gel does one girl need in Africa? The thing that is most disappointing is that if I don’t need it here I don’t need it at home either but I am quite sure that I will go back to my old ways before long.  Anyway I thought I would make a list of the best and worst things I brought just in case any of you plan to spend a few months in rural Ghana someday:)

Most useful things I brought:

  1. Headlamp.  Vital for cooking, making it to the bathroom, reading, whatever, when the lights are out.
  2. Spices from home.  When you are needing something familiar it is easy to do with a little dill or basil.  Tonya’s idea I think, brilliant,  thanks!
  3. Small laptop.  Acer just came out with a mini laptop, the size of a hardback book, before I left and this has made a world of difference both for my work and personal life.  It was well worth it to get the one with enough memory for pictures and music just to keep me going somedays.  And a very good price, check them out….no they aren’t paying me.
  4. My sweatshirt.  Who knew it would get cold in Africa at night? I’m wearing it pretty much every night now, just as soon as the thermometer drops below 29!
  5. Light, long sleeve dress shirts for work.  Dressing up is important.
  6. A travel pillow. 
  7. A sarong.  This often doubles as my sheet and towel when I am travelling.  It is super light and easy to pack.
  8. Anti-nauseants, malaria pills, pepto bismol, tylenol, muscle relaxants, bandaids and antibiotic cream.  I haven’t needed anything else from my medicine kit (yet…knock on wood) but I guess you would have to assess this for yourself.  I don’t really know why I thought I would go through TWO tubes of polysporin though.
  9. SPF 45 sunscreen for my face.
  10. Socks.  These really help with the cold nights and also the super duper dry air.
  11. Cards and calendars with pictures of the Rockies.  These are making great goodbye gifts for the people I have worked with and the girls at the convent.
  12. Sunglasses.
  13. Pumice stone or foot file.  The air is so dry and walking around in flip flopts all day even my feet are starting to crack when I’m not careful.  (Yep, flip flops in December, it’s great!)
  14. Swiss army knife.  Very handy.

Most useless things I brought:

  1. Wayyyyyyy too many clothes.  I had some made here which were better for work anyway plus when you are washing by hand you don’t want to let them pile up.  I mean, when you are having someone else wash them by hand you don’t want to let them pile up.  Nobody cares or even notices that you wear the same thing all the time.  That’s what they are doing too.  I haven’t touched half of the clothes I brought. 
  2. Too many “products”.  I don’t know why but I have used less than half the shampoo I normally do and had a similar experience with lots of other “essentials.”  Maybe the fact that I am having a 30 second cold shower has something to do with it and I put off washing my hair for as long as I can.  Just about anything I would buy at the drugstore I have used less than half of what I thought I would.  Wow.
  3. Running shoes.  What was I thinking?
  4. Mosquito net.  Yes this is important, it is just better to buy here than at home.
  5. Vitamins.  They are only useless because I never take them. 
  6. Yoga mat.  What was I thinking?
  7. Peppermint oil.  I was told that this would keep the ants away.  Not true.  It does smell nice though.
  8. A book of exercises.  What was I thinking?
  9. Too many books in general.  These were heavy and I have had no problem making friends who also have books and are willing to swap.
  10. Gum.  I don’t chew it at home, why would I start here?

The list of things that are useless probably make up half of the total mass of what I brought.  I really am surprised, but I guess now I know.  I’m not sure if the things I would have left at home if I had packed later would have been the right things to go.  Live and learn.

 

That sounds interesting, Uncle Don.  I will meet you at Tim’s.  By the way, there must have been someone who came here with a whole box of Tim Horton’s shirts because I see “Timbit” shirts everywhere.  Or maybe that’s just a mirage.  So good to hear from you Bev, Tonya and Kristen.  I like to know you are reading, makes me feel connected.  Hope you are well! Joseph, so glad to hear you got home safely.  Jirapa isn’t the same without you.  Both Brother and Peter seem to have disappeared.  I suspect Brother got on the next bus and followed you to Wa and apparently Peter was just in it for the game:) I also forgot, “You will give me your hair” which is interpreted as, “Run if you see someone with scissors!” Enjoy the cold.

 

Eureka! December 12, 2008

Filed under: Uncategorized — slrussell @ 10:02 pm

I have made two fairly significant discovies over the past 24 hours.

Epiphany number one. Yes, I can hear the horn from the bus in my bedroom at the convent and still make it aboard. I have wondered this since coming to Jirapa as the schedule is not all that consistent and now I know. One of the things that really got to me in India was the excessive use of the horn. And no it is not just my opinion that it was excessive, it really was, honest.  So far Ghana is just the opposite. It is very rare to hear a horn in Jirapa, I guess because most people are on foot or bicycles and even the motorbikes don’t really seem to use their horns very often.  Really the only time you would use it on a bike is if a goat was moving too slowly when getting out of the way.

 

The metro mass is the one exception. A couple of minutes before it is going to head out of the station its blare can be heard throughout the town and I have noticed that I am pretty much the only one who arrives at the station and stays waiting on the bus. Everybody else seems to materialize shortly after the horn goes.  So, being one who likes to push things just a little bit, I have wondered if I could wait at the convent to hear the horn.  The big question was not just whether or not I could/would hear the horn but if I could make it there fast enough. I so wish I could take an overhead picture of Jirapa to show you this but Google Earth hasn’t got a detailed pic yet. So, from the convent you have to go past the church, the Brother’s house, a school, and a youth center to get to the bus. Today for my regular trip to Wa I planned to take the “two o’clock” bus. This is what I call it, not what anybody else calls it, but it usually leaves about quarter past so I have thought it must be the two o’clock bus. Last week it didn’t leave until well past 2:30. So today, as I was lazily reading my book at 1:45 it is quite impressive to me that I actually heard the horn. After a second of that registering I jumped up, finished packing my bag, went to the washroom, and ran (literally) off to the bus. I just barely made it. The only thing I didn’t have time for was remembering my phone….

 

Epiphany #2: I like kids, specifically teenagers. You would think that as a junior high teacher I would know this but sometimes you just need a little reminder.

 

Yesterday I was approached by one of the girls working at the convent, Monica. “Sister Sandra, could you help me?” I love Monica. She has only recently started working at the convent but she works so hard all day (8 to 8 ) and then goes home to look after her mother who is severely disabled. Monica is really such a nice girl and her eyes just shine. So of course I was more than willing to help. What she wanted was help completing the registration form for the dressmaking program she is going to start in January. Helping her do this, things like explaining what surname and first name meant, made me so happy. When we got to the part where she had to write a sentence explaining how she was going to afford the program (why she’s working at the convent) it thrilled me as we worked through it word by word after I explained that no I wouldn’t write it out for her, she had to do it,  Monday I am going to teach her how to address the envelope and take her to the post office to send it.  Yippee!

 

When I applied to come work here I didn’t do so because I disliked my job at home, I just was feeling restless, like I needed a change. And, yes, I definitely got a change, in pretty much every aspect of my life. I have liked living here and doing the workshops and working with the teachers. But spending just a few minutes “teaching” Monica reminded me how much I like working with kids, really the highlight of my month so far. Good thing, eh, since I am headed back to the classroom soon!

Two great discoveries….I wonder if they’ll make a history book.  Nope, not writing one myself, Steve. And thanks for the support! I bet Mom and Dad might  buy a copy too (just one for the two of them, one each would be excessive).

 

The Results Are In And….. December 11, 2008

Filed under: Uncategorized — slrussell @ 2:02 pm

Those of you who follow world news may have been wondering why I have not mentioned the election in Ghana.  This was not because I was unaware of it, quite the contrary, but the one time I mentioned it to my parents I think I may have taken a few years off each of their lives due to worry.  So the filter went back on and I have been waiting for the all clear before saying more.

 

Yes, I knew about the election before coming here and everything pointed at this being a peaceful situation but I also was well aware that this was the case in Kenya last year as well so you never can know what will happen.  Another thing that I have learned is that when people here would say with confidence that there would be no problems surrounding the election that this was more a desire than a statement.  I think that many people felt that if they voiced the possibility of violence that this would make it more likely to happen.

 

It really has been very interesting to be in an African country during a presidential election and I won’t bore you with all of my observations now.  If you’re really interested you can buy me a Tim’s when I get home:)  So just a few thoughts.  People here have been extremely involved in the whole process and really for at least the past month almost nothing else has been done but prepare for the election, discuss, campaign, discuss, debate, discuss, vote, discuss, wait, discuss, etc.  There have been rallies daily, all of which I have obediently avoided, and trucks driving down the street have loudspeakers blaring their message. I wasn’t 100% obedient on Sunday about staying in the house (we had to go get Mel’s wallet that had been picked the previous day, honest, it was important!) so I did have a chance to see the polls.  First of all I have never seen the place so quiet.  I guess everybody else just went out to vote and then stayed home too.  All of the polling stations were out in the open, an important requirement, so voting took part under the mango trees at schools or other official buildings.  I didn’t see any long lineups, never more than 10 or so people, and I will say that it was one of the most relaxed days I have witnessed in Wa.

 

 It has also been interesting to watch how information is transmitted without the usual internet and tv that we are bombarded with at home.  Some people up here do have tvs and there is a national tv station that plays the usual election notices that ours would at home plus a lot about the need for a peaceful election.  For those without a tv there is the radio.  For the past 3 days waiting for the results it seems like the whole town has been sitting around a radio at one drinking spot or another.  And nobody here is isolated and therefore word of mouth is a huge way that information is transferred.  I can honestly say that I don’t think there is a single person in the upper west who didn’t know about the election, the parties, the day to vote, and so on. 

 

So, the results.  First of all, just under 70% of the population voted.  People were voting for two things, their parliamentary representative and the president.  Basically there are 2 main parties and for president the results are 49.1% for one guy and 47.9% for the other.  Talk about close.  The difference in actual votes is less than 100,000.  And, the real kicker is that, since neither got the 50%+1 that they needed there will be another election in a few weeks (I will be in Burkina….phew!).  The need for this will seem quite obvious to Canadians at this time I would think:) So there will be a presidential runoff where people will just have the option to vote for one guy or the other, all other candidates are gone, and therefore there will be a guaranteed winner.  The part that interests me the most is that 2% of all votes cast were spoiled ballots, enough to have made a significant difference in the results.  The other interesting thing is that one party does have a majority of seats in the parliament, 116 of 230, and this will not change with the runoff election.  (I think there were 5 seats taken by independents but not sure on that.) Right now the guy with 49.1% is NOT the one with the majority of the seats in parliament.

 

Sorry, more talk than I thought, especially for a girl who doesn’t like talking politics.  Still so many more things to talk about, like the people I met from the EU who were here to observe the election as well as the training of election officials I listened to while lying in my bed….they were kind enough to hold this workshop in the meeting room next door and leave the door open.  But all in all my biggest hope for Ghana is peace for the runoff election and the swearing in of the new government in January.

 

 

Lost in Translation December 10, 2008

Filed under: Uncategorized — slrussell @ 12:12 pm

Hi Dad! Thanks for checking in.  I, too, was surprised that nobody asked about the urinating in the bathroom but maybe it is a weird Russell trait that we find this kind of thing interesting.  Anyway, I will explain at least what I think it means in Canadian english as well as a few more of my favourite phrases.  By the way, I also don’t know why there is a rule in all guesthouses that no ironing is allowed in rooms (okay, if you insist!).

 

Ghanaian: No urinating in the bathroom.

Canadian interpretation: No urinating in the room where you bathe, which is separate from the room with the toilet.

 

Ghanaian: I hope you know where (blank, blank) is.

Canadian interpretation: Do you know where (blank, blank) is?

 

Ghanaian: I would be happy to read your report before our meeting on Monday.

Canadian interpretation: Submit your report before Monday so that I can read it before our meeting.

 

Ghanaian: I will go and come.

Canadian interpretation: I am leaving for a while and may come back again sometime maybe soon maybe later maybe not at all.

 

Ghanaian: Will you pick me?

Canadian interpretation: Could you please come pick me up?

 

Ghanaian: My stomach is running.

Canadian interpretation: Diarrhea.

 

Ghanaian: Teachers need to be motivated.

Canadian interpretation: Teachers need more money.

 

Ghanaian: No problem.

Canadian interpretation: There is a problem, but no solution, so it is better to say no problem.

 

I’ve Got Gas December 9, 2008

Filed under: Uncategorized — slrussell @ 8:22 pm

For the stove! For the stove! Fixed today.  Hehehe.  That’s why I teach teenagers:)

 

Really that’s all I’ve got for today but I couldn’t pass that title up.  I seem to have missed the memo that states that the day after the holiday is usually used for travelling back from wherever you have gone so I spent most of the day in the office by myself.  No luck on getting the vehicle for the schools I was to visit.  Is it a bad sign that I am coming to expect this?

 

Thanks, Steve.  That was just for you.  I even googled it to make sure I got the quote right.  See, those years of you and Doug rattling off entire episodes of The Simpsons at dinner weren’t a waste of time after all:)

 

Donna, good timing.  I just managed to get the photos of my fufu pounding this weekend.  These are from over a month ago when I visited the girls in Nandom.  The dinner that night of fufu and groundnut soup was one of the best I have had in Ghana.  Ah, how things have changed from that first week.  It also really helped for me to find out that fufu is just yam pounded to death with a bit of water added.  And groundnut soup is great when there isn’t that extra little fishy something in it:) Glad to hear you are whipping everyone into shape, Iris, and making sure I’m not forgotten.  No pressure though Donna, 8 more school days and then you can catch up….although knowing you there is a list a mile long of things to be done during the holidays.  Don’t work too hard, my friend!

 

Woohoo! Four Day Weekend December 8, 2008

Filed under: Uncategorized — slrussell @ 5:45 pm

Thursday had more of the same confusions as Wednesday so we’ll just skip over that:) Friday was a holiday, Farmer’s Day, and today was, well, I don’t even know the name of the holiday they just told me not to come to work today so we had a four day weekend.  Normally this would fill me with tremendous excitement, but the fact that I’m lonely in the middle of Africa tempered those feelings just a bit.  So it was off to Wa to stay with Mel and Robin. 

 In addition to the great company my highlights pretty much center around food. Robin made brownies AND banana bread on Friday.  This is quite an accomplishment when you don’t have a stove but he’s got a little contraption that does a pretty good job.  They have a huge pot with rocks and sand in the bottom and an empty tin can in the middle to hold whatever pan you put in.  Then just put it on the gas stove and voila! No there’s no temperature dial or any kind of controls but that would make it too easy.  And yesterday Mel cooked a true Sunday dinner with roasted chicken, steamed carrots and green beans, gravy, mashed yams (not like our yams, but kind of like potatoes) and, the real kicker…..yorkshire pudding! Now that’s impressive.  Thanks guys, you’re great!

 

Dad made mention that it appears from the pictures of our dinner last week that I might be eating better here than at home.  Well, although the weight loss hasn’t been anything to write Jenny about, I am looking forward to cooking at home again and adding a little variety to my diet, not to mention just having dinner be a relatively easy thing to do.  The whole food prep situation just got a little more challenging a few weeks ago when the gas for the stove ran out.  This was followed by the need to replace some kind of a valve and, well, that has meant that Sandra has been cooking outside over the coal pot.  I shouldn’t complain, the girls always set the fire for me and really it’s no different than camping, but I’m looking forward to a burner with a dial.  Or a restaurant that is less than a day trip away.

Also a quick note about the weather since I have had many inquiries.  When I first got here it was warm, humid and rainy.  Now it is the same temperature (high 20s, low 30s) but feels much cooler as the air is soooooo dry and there is usually a bit of a breeze.  This “breeze” is called The Harmattan, which is a wind from the Sahara that dries everything out.  So far the wind is not nearly as strong as I was expecting and I am quite enjoying this phase.  The evenings get down into the low 20s, maybe even into the high ‘teens, and I love it.  I have put on a long sleeved shirt a couple of times and even use a sheet or (gasp) a blanket some nights.  I can’t say that I am sorry I missed yesterday’s big snow in Calgary and this weather and the lack of stores/commercials/materialism everywhere has left me finding it hard to believe that Christmas is less than 3 weeks away.  Hmmmm, if I miss Christmas and New Year’s does that mean I don’t have to make New Year’s Resolutions?????

 

Confused December 3, 2008

Filed under: Uncategorized — slrussell @ 6:58 pm

Today was the first chance I had to go out to the schools and observe lessons taught by some of the teachers who had attended the workshops.  At 8am I rolled up to St. Joseph’s (have I mentioned that I cycle in a skirt????) ready to meet the teachers.  The students were all in their formations and doing the march/song they do on their way to class.  So far so good.  When we got to the office we discovered that only 1 out of the 12 teachers from the school was there.  Just let that sink in.  The thing that amazes me the most is that the kids still did what they were supposed to even though there was not a teacher there to “supervise.”

 

Charles and I observed the first lesson and it was okay.  The teacher did have some of the students do a role play, being in line with our whole focus on having the students engaged, so kudos to him for that.  Then we asked him if we could stay and observe his math lesson since the others weren’t there but unfortunately he had not planned a math lesson for the day.  As the hour or so went on a few more teachers arrived, along with the headmistress (principal).  She called one of the other teachers who had come to the workshop to tell her to get to school to teach a lesson so I could observe it.  The whole time I’m wondering why it matters so much more that I observe a lesson than the students are taught a lesson.  Anyway.  This woman unfortunately had “left her lesson plan notebook at home” so she muddled her way through something. I felt really badly because it was clear that the kids had no idea what she was talking about and were afraid to answer.  I would be too if I was insulted for taking too long or saying something incorrect.  Sigh.  To be fair, the first class had 60 and the second 64.  As we left I had the chance to say hello to the kids in the other classrooms, many of them filled with the same number of kids all sprawled out on the floor because they were younger.  I’m not sure if I could keep my motivation in such a situation.

 

The second school we went to had a really good feel about it right away and we were not disappointed.  Two of the four teachers were ready for us and the lessons they taught were well done.  The first teacher actually brought in containers of different sizes and had students fill them with water as they were discussing volume.  Hooray!  The second class gave me the most pleasure of the day, but not because of the teaching.  When we walked in the teacher’s 6 month old baby leaned over to be held by me.  Same age as Alyssa, it made my day! This teacher also had a pretty good lesson (on poultry!) and it still amazes me that she does all of this while taking care of her child all day in the classroom.   And I was super excited to see that she had more dice made for her class and am quite sure she has been playing some math games with them.  Hooray #2!

But as we were leaving the school this same teacher chased a 3 year old back towards the nursery school, a good 200m away, hitting him with a stick.  I was so upset and she explained that he just keeps wandering over there and so she wanted to make it so he wouldn’t come back.  Gulp. Yes, I took the kid back to the nursery school myself, where incidentally a group of junior high students asked me if they could touch me.  They just wanted to feel what “different” skin was like.

 

When we got back to the office word was spreading that nobody had been paid yet this month.  For people who are living hand to mouth this is tragedy. 

 

So here I have spent a whole day “observing,” trying not to judge, and I am totally confused.  Ups, downs, cause, effect, one big loop.  I just don’t get it.

 

 
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